Bike Maintenance.
- CLP
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
Did some bike maintenance on the weekend
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- plastik8
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Bike Maintenance.
Is there a change log CLP?
- CLP
- C grade super domestique
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- Joined: Mon Dec 20, 2004 1:37 pm
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
all documented here:plastik8 wrote:Is there a change log CLP?
http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/firmware.html
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
Penny has a new back tyre after I discovered a cut in there on Saturday (resulting in no ride Sunday) which turned out to be two cuts when I changed it. Also have a new hobby as the mechanic at the local shop is going to let me shadow him one day a week so I can learn all about fixing bikes ...
- CLP
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
So after my last CX race with an insanely noisy bike, I did a bit of a test. Changing from my race wheels to my commuting wheels, the noise was gone.. just like magic. So my initial thinking that either the pedal bearings or the cranks/Bottom bracket was the culprit was off the mark!
So attention turned to the rear hub.. My suspicion was the freehub, since i'd had some bearing issues previously. Immediately it seemed something wasn't quite right. Preparing to remove the cluster, I removed the quick release skewer and the cluster pretty much fell off. wtf? Closer inspection showed that the axle had sheared. So I now have a 2 piece axle system.. fabulous. I haven't full checked it out, but I suspect the inboard freehub bearing has seized; To be confirmed.
Not sure how easy to come by the axle will be, given I had trouble tracking down a freehub previously. So I might be up for a new wheel/wheel set. In the short term, I need to work out a way to get a near new cassette off a freehub!
So attention turned to the rear hub.. My suspicion was the freehub, since i'd had some bearing issues previously. Immediately it seemed something wasn't quite right. Preparing to remove the cluster, I removed the quick release skewer and the cluster pretty much fell off. wtf? Closer inspection showed that the axle had sheared. So I now have a 2 piece axle system.. fabulous. I haven't full checked it out, but I suspect the inboard freehub bearing has seized; To be confirmed.
Not sure how easy to come by the axle will be, given I had trouble tracking down a freehub previously. So I might be up for a new wheel/wheel set. In the short term, I need to work out a way to get a near new cassette off a freehub!
- CLP
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
So i got around to doing an upgrade today on Lynskey.
My original choice of headset I felt was substandard, especially considering the bike build and the level of components that i'd already attached to the bike. In particular I was less than impressed with the use of plastic for the crown race, expansion ring and top cap in the 10 series Cane Creek headset. Never fear, the Cane Creek web site goes on about how all their headsets are compatible with each other, so in theory I should just be able to upgrade the appropriate bits and we're done (specifically, not removing the headset cups from the frame). I purchased a Cane Creek 40 series headset to accomplish this task, to replace the 10 series that I had already installed.
Front end of the bike disassembled, I replaced the crown race, expansion ring and top cap with the 40 series equivalents. Having finished the job it just didn't seem right. Looking a bit closer, I noticed that the bottom cup was quite different in the 40 series than the 10 series.
So I disassembled the front end yet again, replaced the bottom cup, re assembled and took it for a test spin. Nope.. still not right. So much play in the headset that I was less than impressed and losing my patience pretty quickly. Examining things even closer, it turns out that the 40 series top cup is also different (but less obviously so) to the 10 series. FFS!
Disassembled yet one more time, installed the 40 series top cup and and then all back together. finally it seems that i could get the play out of the damn headset!
lesson learnt. "Compatible" means something different from one person to the next. To me, "compatible" means I can pick and mix bits and they work together; to Cane Creek "compatible" means it'll work together as long as you completely replace everything.
My original choice of headset I felt was substandard, especially considering the bike build and the level of components that i'd already attached to the bike. In particular I was less than impressed with the use of plastic for the crown race, expansion ring and top cap in the 10 series Cane Creek headset. Never fear, the Cane Creek web site goes on about how all their headsets are compatible with each other, so in theory I should just be able to upgrade the appropriate bits and we're done (specifically, not removing the headset cups from the frame). I purchased a Cane Creek 40 series headset to accomplish this task, to replace the 10 series that I had already installed.
Front end of the bike disassembled, I replaced the crown race, expansion ring and top cap with the 40 series equivalents. Having finished the job it just didn't seem right. Looking a bit closer, I noticed that the bottom cup was quite different in the 40 series than the 10 series.
So I disassembled the front end yet again, replaced the bottom cup, re assembled and took it for a test spin. Nope.. still not right. So much play in the headset that I was less than impressed and losing my patience pretty quickly. Examining things even closer, it turns out that the 40 series top cup is also different (but less obviously so) to the 10 series. FFS!
Disassembled yet one more time, installed the 40 series top cup and and then all back together. finally it seems that i could get the play out of the damn headset!
lesson learnt. "Compatible" means something different from one person to the next. To me, "compatible" means I can pick and mix bits and they work together; to Cane Creek "compatible" means it'll work together as long as you completely replace everything.
- Vilante
- Master artist
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
I would have thought the same thing CLP, how bloody annoying!
- CLP
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
CX continues to amaze me in the new ways that I get to learn new things about bicycle components and general frustration.
Before the start of my winter CX Series, I thought I'd give the bike a bit of an overhaul, bit of a clean and check, brand new wheels and tyres, new brake and shift cables, plus housings, and some new bar tape. It'll look like a million dollars, even if the rider doesn't :P
Replacing the cables started off fairly well, until I got to the shift cables. Rather than replacing like for like, I decided to upgrade from the plain colour jagwire housings to the fancy looking braided housing, simply because they look cool. Turns out that the braided shift cable housings are 0.5 mm wider than their plain coloured counterparts On a road bike, this is unlikely to be of concern. On my CX bike it (naturally) becomes a huge issue. A standard Jagwire brake and shift cable kit comes with just enough cable end ferrules to complete a bike. My CX bike seems to use an enormous number of these ferrules. Due to the change in housing size, none of the old ones can be used! So I've ordered another 2 sets of Jagwire cables so i'll have enough ferrules just to complete this supposedly simple job. On the upside i'll have spare cables and housings for the next few seasons
Oh, and referring to my previous post in this group.. here's the outcome:
http://ramblingsofclp.blogspot.com/2015 ... thing.html
Before the start of my winter CX Series, I thought I'd give the bike a bit of an overhaul, bit of a clean and check, brand new wheels and tyres, new brake and shift cables, plus housings, and some new bar tape. It'll look like a million dollars, even if the rider doesn't :P
Replacing the cables started off fairly well, until I got to the shift cables. Rather than replacing like for like, I decided to upgrade from the plain colour jagwire housings to the fancy looking braided housing, simply because they look cool. Turns out that the braided shift cable housings are 0.5 mm wider than their plain coloured counterparts On a road bike, this is unlikely to be of concern. On my CX bike it (naturally) becomes a huge issue. A standard Jagwire brake and shift cable kit comes with just enough cable end ferrules to complete a bike. My CX bike seems to use an enormous number of these ferrules. Due to the change in housing size, none of the old ones can be used! So I've ordered another 2 sets of Jagwire cables so i'll have enough ferrules just to complete this supposedly simple job. On the upside i'll have spare cables and housings for the next few seasons
Oh, and referring to my previous post in this group.. here's the outcome:
http://ramblingsofclp.blogspot.com/2015 ... thing.html
- markus
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
You did know of course that the Jagwire braided ferrules can be bought separately ?CLP wrote: A standard Jagwire brake and shift cable kit comes with just enough cable end ferrules to complete a bike. My CX bike seems to use an enormous number of these ferrules. Due to the change in housing size, none of the old ones can be used! So I've ordered another 2 sets of Jagwire cables so i'll have enough ferrules just to complete this supposedly simple job. On the upside i'll have spare cables and housings for the next few seasons
Much cycling such kilometers.
- CLP
- C grade super domestique
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
yeah, I did see that on the jagwire website, though i didn't see any listed on the usual sites I buy from. after putting my order in however, I found that someone was selling bottles of 50 for about $40 on ebay.markus wrote:You did know of course that the Jagwire braided ferrules can be bought separately ?CLP wrote: A standard Jagwire brake and shift cable kit comes with just enough cable end ferrules to complete a bike. My CX bike seems to use an enormous number of these ferrules. Due to the change in housing size, none of the old ones can be used! So I've ordered another 2 sets of Jagwire cables so i'll have enough ferrules just to complete this supposedly simple job. On the upside i'll have spare cables and housings for the next few seasons
I would need a multiple of those kits you purchased though,, and they're not quite the ones i want. plus shipping from the US is generally horrendous :/
(actually.. Jenson do seem to have the ones i would like.. the shift seal end caps... )
- Vilante
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
What do you guys use for lube?
I was using a wet lube before I changed gearing but it just turned to a black tar until the next was and got on anything that went near it.
I was using a wet lube before I changed gearing but it just turned to a black tar until the next was and got on anything that went near it.
- norbs
- fucking right wing vegan lesbian
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
Vilante wrote:What do you guys use for lube?
I was using a wet lube before I changed gearing but it just turned to a black tar until the next was and got on anything that went near it.
KY?
White Lightning or Purple Extreme are my preferred ones. I used some Morgan Blue (apparently the ducks guts) on it and it was the same. Went black and seemed to get everywhere.
Sarc ; my second favourite type of gasm.
- Duke
- Dukester Maldonado
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
I swear by Rock'n'Roll Gold.norbs wrote:Vilante wrote:What do you guys use for lube?
I was using a wet lube before I changed gearing but it just turned to a black tar until the next was and got on anything that went near it.
KY?
White Lightning or Purple Extreme are my preferred ones. I used some Morgan Blue (apparently the ducks guts) on it and it was the same. Went black and seemed to get everywhere.
Dukester
norbs diplomacy lesson 101: "If I was putting words in your mouth, you'd know."
norbs diplomacy lesson 101: "If I was putting words in your mouth, you'd know."
- markus
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
Squirt lube.norbs wrote:Vilante wrote:What do you guys use for lube?
I was using a wet lube before I changed gearing but it just turned to a black tar until the next was and got on anything that went near it.
KY?
White Lightning or Purple Extreme are my preferred ones. I used some Morgan Blue (apparently the ducks guts) on it and it was the same. Went black and seemed to get everywhere.
Much cycling such kilometers.
- CLP
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
+1 for R&R GoldDuke wrote:I swear by Rock'n'Roll Gold.norbs wrote:Vilante wrote:What do you guys use for lube?
I was using a wet lube before I changed gearing but it just turned to a black tar until the next was and got on anything that went near it.
KY?
White Lightning or Purple Extreme are my preferred ones. I used some Morgan Blue (apparently the ducks guts) on it and it was the same. Went black and seemed to get everywhere.
- Vilante
- Master artist
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
Legends, thank you
- Enforcer-J
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
Squirt is da best! In saying that, my mate doesnt even use lube and gets as good a mileage as anyone else!
- Duke
- Dukester Maldonado
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
Yep I get how you can do that, except the excessive chain noise would get very irritating... Even though I use lube I pretty much run a dry chain (even when I raced BMX).Enforcer-J wrote:Squirt is da best! In saying that, my mate doesnt even use lube and gets as good a mileage as anyone else!
I lube the chain like normal but then dry it off with a rag so the external plates & rollers are near enough dry, remember it's the internals (pins & rollers) that need lube.
Doing this you will find you may have to lube more often in wet weather but in dry running it lasts as long as a wet chain without all the extra wear from the grit & grime pickup.
Dukester
norbs diplomacy lesson 101: "If I was putting words in your mouth, you'd know."
norbs diplomacy lesson 101: "If I was putting words in your mouth, you'd know."
- CLP
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- Joined: Mon Dec 20, 2004 1:37 pm
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
So apparently today was front derailleur day at Chateau CLP.
Phase 1:
as part of my upgrade/maintenance of my CX bike I was planning to replace the bottom-pull front derailleur with a CX-spec top-pull variety. The main driver being that it wouldn't require the use of a pulley to reroute a cable from the top tube, eliminating yet another place that mud can gather. Nice and simple FTW. Shimano CX70 top-pull Derailleur had been sitting waiting for an opportunity to be installed.. ie, when i wasn't lazy Turns out today was that day
Phase 2:
Recently Miss V upgraded a few things on her road bike (chainset and bottom bracket). What we hadn't realised was that there is a slight incompatibility between the 105 5600 front derailleur and 5700 cranks. We discovered this after a ride on the trainer.. end result a scratched new crank Basically, all 105 5600 series are triple chain ring compatible. So that means the front derailleur cage is slightly wider, and the cranks are shaped to accommodate this. On the other hand, in the 5700 series, there are distinct 2 and 3 chainring versions. So we were essentially using a 2 chainring crankset with a 3 chainring derailleur.
Fortunately, with me upgrading my CX front derailleur that meant a not so new 5700 series front derailleur became available to be installed on Miss V's roadie. problem solved
Phase 1:
as part of my upgrade/maintenance of my CX bike I was planning to replace the bottom-pull front derailleur with a CX-spec top-pull variety. The main driver being that it wouldn't require the use of a pulley to reroute a cable from the top tube, eliminating yet another place that mud can gather. Nice and simple FTW. Shimano CX70 top-pull Derailleur had been sitting waiting for an opportunity to be installed.. ie, when i wasn't lazy Turns out today was that day
Phase 2:
Recently Miss V upgraded a few things on her road bike (chainset and bottom bracket). What we hadn't realised was that there is a slight incompatibility between the 105 5600 front derailleur and 5700 cranks. We discovered this after a ride on the trainer.. end result a scratched new crank Basically, all 105 5600 series are triple chain ring compatible. So that means the front derailleur cage is slightly wider, and the cranks are shaped to accommodate this. On the other hand, in the 5700 series, there are distinct 2 and 3 chainring versions. So we were essentially using a 2 chainring crankset with a 3 chainring derailleur.
Fortunately, with me upgrading my CX front derailleur that meant a not so new 5700 series front derailleur became available to be installed on Miss V's roadie. problem solved
- DexterPunk
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
Hey all. Anyone know a good reference for learning how to adjust disc brakes? My rear brakes have become a bit squishy, and I can't do sick skids.
- Enforcer-J
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
Hydraulic?
- DexterPunk
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- Enforcer-J
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
Ahh sorry, I know a handy trick to 'easybleed' hydraulics but ive never even seen mechanical disk brakes tbh!
It would just be cable stretch so it should just be a matter of shortening/tightening the cable.
It would just be cable stretch so it should just be a matter of shortening/tightening the cable.
- CLP
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
If there's a barrel adjuster on the cable or brake lever, then you ought to be able to rotate that a quarter turn or so to tighten up the cable ; repeat until skids are matching the desired level of sickness.DexterPunk wrote:No just a cable.
either the cable is stretched, or the pads are worn. either way, you need to take up the slack in the cable.
hope that helps.
- DexterPunk
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Re: Bike Maintenance.
Thanks CLP, it's a start... I have a free service since the bike is pretty new. (Bike friend suggested the cable probably has stretched a bit as they do when new) but he had a look and doesn't think it's too bad. He suggested a degreaser on the disc, and that hasn't seemed to have done anything much.
I tend to like to tinker, and prefer to learn how to fix/adjust my own gear than rely on others.
I tend to like to tinker, and prefer to learn how to fix/adjust my own gear than rely on others.