A.R.S.E.

Ive been doing some practice with the v8 at phillip island and i got down to a 33 flat with a setup just called "club" that was shared by a few members in a practice session. Unfortunately i forgot to save it and now im struggling to get to the mid 33's with a different setup im using.

I tried Peter Reads setups but all of them have this characteristic of being so unstable under braking and i dont think i can extract the pace from them that i want.

So i thought i would come over here and beg for setups lol....

It would be good to try a couple of different setups for phillip island but i also thought that this thread could be used for v8 setups in general.

Here are my setups, some older some newer, pick and choose if you like. (the philip island set is very old)
http://ysuprogramming.com/public/fordv8sc/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Not doing the 250 Istvan? I took your latest Laguna set, softened the rear springs one notch and I am going to use that. Feels really good actually though I would love just a touch more drive off the corners, can you recommend which way to go with the shocks for that please to help the rear tyres last over the distance?
Thanks

I've since done the same and softened the rear
Among other things.

If you want the oversteer to kick in earlier on throttle input, raise the watts link. It'll make the setup more 'honest', but sometimes it can be a bitch.

As for the tyres: that prev set was notoriously bad on rears for some reason, I had to adjust the rollbars while driving every 5 laps or so. The latest is better in that regard. I've nfi how to correctly set the shocks, don't ask me that I think for that we'd need some telemetry data.

I've no idea what 250 you're talking about, so no, I'm not doing it.

The Philip Island 250km race tomorrow morning that is part of the iRacing World Tour - V8s for 57 or 58 laps at Philip Island.
Also, I actually want to calm down the rear a little, that set has the Watts link at its minimum already so I can not drop it any lower, so what would you suggest for just a tiny change to give a little less oversteer on corner exit?

That's a tricky one, which I'm often fighting with. I don't have a ready-made recipe for it. The car is just built this way.

You either settle the rear down on a soft spring - but then you can't turn in that well - or lift it up and make it harder - in that case the corner-out becomes tricky while the car turns nicely in.

You can try to lower the rear end a tiny bit (5 or so ticks), or soften the rear springs (but watch the height; it changes with the softer springs! Also watch the cross-weight, it can go off).
You can even try to add camber to the rear if it's low (funny but it helps, up to about 4). Or maybe soften the rear rollbar/harden the front. You can reduce the front toe-out but it has too great negative effect on the cornering in general IMHO. Check the rear toe as well. If it's negative the car will be very funny to drive Even if it's 0 you might want to add 1 or 2 ...
Most of these changes affect the corner-in, too, so you might need to fiddle with the front afterwards as well, or put up with poorer cornering.

But - for example - if you then even things out with adding camber to the front (to a level) it's all good, however the added camber lifts the front up and reduces braking ability a little. Good fun, eh?

Or in theory you could harden the rear bump damper and/or harden the front rebound to get a quicker weight transfer to the rear, but that does not seem to work for me. Overdamping the car will have very bad effects on the handling tho, so be careful (and it's easy to do, try it). And of course it affects cornering again especially in case one end gets different dampers.

Or you can try and play with tyre pressures if you're game, just watch out; they have an effect on every aspect of the racing. (wear, heat, handling - prolly even fuel usage)

I'm really only after a little bit so just a tweak on the rear shocks should do it - just hoping I can at least drop into the second split otherwise it wont matter much. I have red blood in my veins, not green!

try lowering the rear first. Just a few ticks. (and watch the cross-weight!)

So are you having a run? You would be a shoe in for the top spilt.

ysu wrote:

Or in theory you could harden the rear bump damper and/or harden the front rebound to get a quicker weight transfer to the rear, but that does not seem to work for me.

Does this work in iRacing (I don't know anything about iRacing)? If it does it outlines exactly why sim's drive me up the wall these days. It's like LFS and tyre pressures, higher tyre pressure = cooler tyre? wtf physics 101 compressed air gets hot.

If you increase front rebound then you slow weight transfer to the rear not speed it up. As you are lengthening the time it takes for the shock to come back up. Then if you increase the rear bump you don't allow the spring to compress much at all so again, it makes it easier to send the weight the other way.

Sambo, there was a very long discussion on this, it's physics; harder dampers speed up the weight transfer (the trasfer of forces if you like) because they act a bit like a solid rod, and with a totally solid suspension the force transfer is instant, altho there's no mass transfered.
The harder dampers slow down the transfer of the mass, though.

I do not want to start an argument here; it's pointless. It's been proven by much smarter people than me with all sorts of degrees in mechanical engineering and physics. I can dig the iRacing forum thread for you, but you need a membership to access it.
Either way, I'll not argue over this here.

by the way it does work, I've tried it again lately. But it takes a considerable feel for the car to properly notice it.

ysu wrote:Sambo, there was a very long discussion on this, it's physics; harder dampers speed up the weight transfer (the trasfer of forces if you like) because they act a bit like a solid rod, and with a totally solid suspension the force transfer is instant, altho there's no mass transfered.
The harder dampers slow down the transfer of the mass, though.

I do not want to start an argument here; it's pointless. It's been proven by much smarter people than me with all sorts of degrees in mechanical engineering and physics. I can dig the iRacing forum thread for you, but you need a membership to access it.
Either way, I'll not argue over this here.

by the way it does work, I've tried it again lately. But it takes a considerable feel for the car to properly notice it.

Ok dokkie, I see now - I think you and I are confusing terms in relation to the effects of dampening. Hence why we agree on half of what we say but not the other half.

I have no ambition to start an argument bud - I hate arguments. Discussions on the other hand I like , after all this is a discussion forum. I would love to see that thread, it would be an interesting read. I have a membership though its inactive ( can you still visit the forums with that?).

I was just merely sharing what I have learned through some people of similar intelligence to your said people. . So I am, in a way, just the messenger. Don't shoot me!

And besides, like I said if it works in the game go for it. It is, after all, all that matters in this case. I want Arse's to win!

well, this is the thread (it's on the old forums) check if you can access it. Warning tho: it's bloody long, full of long physical explanations, equations and stuff, and a lot of it is unnecessary bs!
http://members.iracing.com/iforum/threa ... 0&tstart=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

...and indeed I think most of the time it's a confusion of forces/weight/mass which causes the issue.

ysu wrote:well, this is the thread (it's on the old forums) check if you can access it. Warning tho: it's bloody long, full of long physical explanations, equations and stuff, and a lot of it is unnecessary bs!
http://members.iracing.com/iforum/threa ... 0&tstart=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

...and indeed I think most of the time it's a confusion of forces/weight/mass which causes the issue.

Fear not, I am bit of a math nerd, I like equations. Thanks for this bud, I've bookmarked it and looking forward to reading it.

edit, haha you need a subscription to see it. Oh well, maybe when I get the cash and free time to give this game another go I will have a read of it. Thanks anyway Ysu .

Did anyone race in the phillip island 250? I was keen to race but what a stupid time to hold it!

VIPEROSI wrote: what a stupid time to hold it!

As voted for by Aus club members.

I raced it and really enjoyed it and it was at the time asked for by the members as Darren pointed out. Three full fields so a pretty good turnout to.

Has anyone got a good setup for mid ohio?

I have had some good results recently using the setups Rohland Ehnstrom (sp?) posted on the forums. Just find the closet track and turn the track bar down from alien levels and go from there.

Sambo wrote:

ysu wrote:well, this is the thread (it's on the old forums) check if you can access it. Warning tho: it's bloody long, full of long physical explanations, equations and stuff, and a lot of it is unnecessary bs!
http://members.iracing.com/iforum/threa ... 0&tstart=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

...and indeed I think most of the time it's a confusion of forces/weight/mass which causes the issue.

Fear not, I am bit of a math nerd, I like equations. Thanks for this bud, I've bookmarked it and looking forward to reading it.

edit, haha you need a subscription to see it. Oh well, maybe when I get the cash and free time to give this game another go I will have a read of it. Thanks anyway Ysu .

Since you're such a maths nerd, I found this to help you with the equations...

[youtube] [/youtube]

If we're going over old shit

Sambo wrote:It's like LFS and tyre pressures, higher tyre pressure = cooler tyre? wtf physics 101 compressed air gets hot.

From what I understand most tyre heat comes from carcass deformation. Higher pressure = less deformation = less heat. If it's plain air inside then it would compound because more air would increase the pressure even further as it gets hot.

more so on the oval side but i dont even care about the tempretures of the tyres, as long as the there is a spread about them form inside to out.

DarrenM wrote:If we're going over old shit

Sambo wrote:It's like LFS and tyre pressures, higher tyre pressure = cooler tyre? wtf physics 101 compressed air gets hot.

From what I understand most tyre heat comes from carcass deformation. Higher pressure = less deformation = less heat. If it's plain air inside then it would compound because more air would increase the pressure even further as it gets hot.

but then why don't flat tyres explode? Mika Hakkinen could have used some over-pressurised rear tyres at hockenheim in 2000!

[youtube] [/youtube]

It's definitely higher pressured tyres heat up faster. But there are of course heaps of factors to consider. The heat soak from brakes is a big one and indeed, how much the tyre moves around too. But from years of watching, it's always been about having higher pressure tyres for a qualifying run so they get heat into them faster.

wait, heat up quicker, or heat up more maybe different...